Lexi and I last visited Lao in 2002 and in that time I had forgotten many bits of the language, the Lao way of doing things and the liking for Karaoke. Thankfully there is a very loud outdoor Karaoke bar right next to our Vang Vieng Guesthouse that is thundering out Lao favorites, some of which are being murdered by a range of 'singers' who make up for their lack of skill with great portions of gusto. Lovely.
We travelled to Vang Vieng this morning after spending Christmas Day in Vientiane. Merry Christmas! Children almost managed the 0700 present curfew, arriving in Lexi and I's room at 0650, which considering last year's antics was a distinct improvement. I had thought that we were all set for Santa's arrival the night before until Rupert pointed out that we were lacking in stockings or stocking-substitutes. Quick as you like he showed ingenuity by offering to go to the hotel reception and ask for three pillow cases. Luckily his Lao / French was not put to the test as Lexi found some safety pins and offered to turn three t-shirts into impromptu sacks. This arrangement worked and so, fortunately, did Santa. Phew.
As 25th was a normal working day in Lao I dodged rush hour traffic on my morning run to and round That Luang. One of the very obvious differences about Lao of 2013 compared to our last visit in 2002 are the numbers of cars, especially 4WD pick-ups, on the road. Such vehicles used to be the preserve of the various aid agencies, NGOs and rich Government officials. Now they are ubiquitous and in certain street it is not uncommon to see them parked two or three deep.
We had Christmas lunch at a former favourite restaurant, La Terrasse, which as the name suggests specializes in fine French fodder. The plat du jour was duck and was splendid. The place had not long opened when we first arrived in 1998 and has clearly gone from strength to strength. Something that also hasn't changed are the vagaries of Lao bureaucracy. When I arrived at the airport on Saturday I was greeted with the news that I needed a photo to go with my visa application. I didn't have one, nor was there a facility for one to be taken there. The customs official pulled various concerned looking expressions until I explained in Lao that I simply did not have a photo. That seemed to break his very fragile mask of officialdom and he said "Bo pen nyang, mua nar," or "Never mind, next time." A rule is a rule and is enforced unless it isn't.
After lunch Lexi had some unplanned beauty treatment down by the Mekong. While the children played on some handily placed slides Lexi was approached by some zealous Vietnamese ladies armed with tools for beautifying nails and other associated instruments. Eventually Lexi agreed to being done and two ladies set about scrubbing her feet, lower arms and legs, painting her nails and pummeling her back, which they assured her was all very relaxing. Others appeared and offered to do the same to me which meant that I beat a hasty retreat. I really can't think of anything worse. When they had finished their stuff Lexi had posh looking talons, a slightly lighter wallet and aching shoulders.
Following that we met up with a former VSO colleague and piled into an open house Christmas Day party complete with all the usual treats of the 25th: turkey, beer lao, Christmas cake indoor disco complete with light show, merry conversations with pleasant strangers. All good.
Well the singers are still doing their stuff so I might have to sneak out to find a beer Lao to try to dull the pain. I seem to remember that the singing always used to sound better after a beer, so here goes.
Merry Christmas.